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That 78 RPM
record you are holding in your hand can be anywhere between 50 and 100
years old. You can’t just throw it on a turntable and play it or it will
be destroyed.
Typical
grooves on a 78 RPM record are wider than those on LP's (33 RPM) and
45's. Playing a 78 requires a special stylus, or needle, which is much
wider than what you would use on an LP or 45.
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If you use a microscope and look
at the groves in a 78, you’ll find a small amount of debris at the
bottom of the groove. No amount of cleaning will remove it.
Using a 78 RPM stylus will allow you to play that record because
the wider
(than an LP) stylus touches the sides of the groove and does not reach
the bottom where the debris is.
If you use a LP stylus to play
that 78, the tip will reach to the bottom of the groove and plow
through the debris field and not really touch the left and right
sidewalls. What you will hear will be mostly noise and distortion.
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If the groove is worn from
multiple playbacks, the mid and lower parts of the groove wall get
worn down and the stylus rides lower in the groove closer to the
debris. Ultimately, unless a larger stylus is employed, the stylus
chews its way into the debris. The result is a significant increase in
surface noise. Don’t play a 78 with a LP needle. |
Typical
generic 78 needles are elliptical and have a pointed tip. The pointed
tips of a generic 78 needle tends to dig in to the bottom part of worn
groove and don't fit well. A better fit is achieved with a Truncated
Stylus whereby the tip is somewhat flattened off. Another advantage of
the truncated stylus is that no matter how well the record was cleaned,
there always seems to be some significant amount of residual filth and
debris remaining in the very bottom of the groove. A truncated stylus
rides higher above this debris, whereas a non-truncated conical or
elliptic ends up having to literally plow and gouge its' way through the
mess.
New Laser Technology
There is a new technology that uses lasers to read the grooves on a
record instead of needles. While it shows great promise, especially in
restoration work, it's still in the laboratory phase and probably
wouldn't be available for commercial use for several years. It's also
very, very expensive.
RIAA Equalization
Prior to 50's there was no standard equalization to achieve the highest
possible fidelity and smoothness of response. This ended with the
establishment of the RIAA (Recording Industry Association of America)
which established a single agreed on equalization curve. Remember that
old 78 RPM records were made prior to this standard. Old records played
back on equipment that has built in RIAA EQ curves (such as most modern
day amps with phono inputs) will sound muddy with tinny highs. Record
these "flat" without RIAA. That will probably require a special pre-amp
between your turntable and computer input. After you get the audio onto
your computer you can fiddle with the EQ to try and match whatever the
recording used for equalization. It's a trial-and-error thing.
Cleaning
We've covered this elsewhere, but is needs to be repeated: old record
recording surfaces were not made out of only vinyl but often times
shellac, lacquer or acetate. Shellac and substrates made from even
cardboard like material can not accept the chemicals like those used on
vinyl records - alcohol and acetone in particular. Make absolutely
certain the cleaning solution contains no alcohol or acetone. Use of
these will destroy the record. Use distilled water only and live with
the results. A drop of mild, liquid dishwashing soap added to the
distilled water will help.
Do not leave any old records immersed in water. Many contain a porous
fiber core that will quickly absorb the moisture. These must be dry
cleaned only. Here's what will happen if you don't heed this: the
substrate will swell and the surface de-laminate.
Before magnetic tape and wire recorders, early home audio recording onto
blank discs was very popular. Several companies had disk cutters placed
in department stores where a person, for 25¢, could make a short 1
minute, 78 RPM recording. Many of those disks still survive. Most of
those discs are acetate over a cardboard fiber substrate. Don't try to
wet clean them.
Because of the porous nature of cardboard and the acetate surface, you
may be looking at a record covered with fine de-lamination lines. This
is from the moisture in the atmosphere and the uneven expansion and
contraction of the different materials. Some of the earlier discs were
actually a hard wax surface over cardboard. Audio restoration is
possible but is does takes significant experience and professional-grade
equipment.
Diamond Disks ?
You probably never saw one of these but there are many around. Thomas Edison
started work in 1911 on his own improved discs and the result was the
Edison Diamond Discs. According to the hype at the time they could
played without wear, would not warp and sounded better than existing 78
RPM discs. Diamond Discs used a diamond playback needle while 78 RPM
records used a steel needle. Diamond Discs have a playback speed of 80
RPM, are a hefty 10oz, ¼ inch thick and hold about 5 minutes of audio.
The most important difference was the way the audio information is
recorded. With 78 RPM records, the needle inscribes the audio laterally,
or moving left and right. Diamond Discs use a vertical cut or
up-and-down method.
Millions of Diamond Discs are still around today. Their sound quality is
pretty good. Back then they cost between $1 and $2.
You do not need Edison reproducer to play them. Just drop one on your
modern turntable with stereo cartridge. Don't try to use a Victrola
steel needle player because that will damage the discs.
Restoration is about the same for any old 78 RPM record. Use your normal
LP needle and just play them. If you want better reproduction, you
should buy a 3.7 Mill stylus to play these as the grooves are quite a
bit wider than modern LPs 0.7 Mill or so. A modern 78rpm stylus is the
2nd best choice.
As to the speed, just record them at either 78rpm or you can also use
45rpm if that's all your turntable offers. Adjust the speed to 80rpm
using your software. Even though these records are in mono, make sure
you record in stereo so you extract the vertical signal components and
hear the record as it should be heard. Once you have your stereo
recording, just choose the File Conversion function in your software to
convert to mono. This will give you the vertical component.
The important thing to remember - if you have any old record and the
material on it is important - it's best to leave the restoration work to
a professional. |

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Don't use a LP stylus to play that 78 - it'll destroy it.
Don't use vinyl record cleaners. |
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